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Thread: Hondata install: 2 problems

  1. #1
    Inactive Member kannon's Avatar
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    Question

    I completed my Hondata stage 4 install last night along with my RC 440cc injectors and relocated my sensors (map and intake temp).

    Fired the car up for the first time, and viola! it ran, and sounded fine. only problem was my tach didnt move at all.

    Shut the car off... started it again, same problem.

    When inside to get the laptop and see what datalogging was telling me... fired the car up... and SHIT.. the idle was bouncing like crazy. i didnt even change anything. And it wasn't bouncing like a vacuum leak either.

    After a minute or so, the CEL came on. I shorted the service connector and attempted to read the code, but it wouldnt flash.

    Im somewhat stumped, and potentially in trouble since I dont have a rom burner.

    You can view my datalog of the problem (notice the injector graphs)... a few seconds into it I held the engine at 3000 rpm or so to see how it sounded, and it seemed to run smooth...
    http://www.partywithdan.com/jason/ohboy.rec

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  2. #2
    Inactive Member kannon's Avatar
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    btw.. im running Tom Payn's b16 @8psi rom.

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  3. #3
    Inactive Member TurboITR's Avatar
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    Arrow

    -you are going to have to get a rom burner

    -if your car is OBD2 the tach wont work

    -use the IAC valve setting on the hondata to help smooth out your idle

    -the hondata will show you which code the car is throwing

    -using someone elses rom is only good for a base map - you need to tweek it for your personal car just using that as a base to make it easy

    -again - get a rom burner just like 200 bucks you have already spent the big bucks dont skimp now...

    ------------------
    some mods and stuff

    [This message has been edited by TurboITR (edited September 29, 2001).]

  4. #4
    Inactive Member kannon's Avatar
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    thanks for the help.. i will be getting a rom burner.

    more info:

    I started the car this morning and it started up and ran fine (idled at 1700 or so though).

    Then after it warmed up for about 2 minutes, the bouncing idle started. no code this time.

    btw, although the CEL went on last night, no code showed in the datalogger.

    here is a link to this morning's datalog:
    http://www.partywithdan.com/jason/saturday_morning.rec

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  5. #5
    Inactive Member TurboITR's Avatar
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    Arrow

    -rom burner = good

    -once the car gets to warmer temps - sometimes the car will have a fluctuating idle like that - again changing the settings on the IAC will fix this (plus a little tuning of the maps at low RPM) and setting the "target idle"

    -if the CEL light is on make sure the light on the hondata itself is solid red - sometimes when the CEL comes on it means that the hondata is not connecting to the laptop (try this if you cant get a code out of it) if that doesnt work call your local hondata dealer they should be able to help you


    ------------------
    some mods and stuff

    [This message has been edited by TurboITR (edited September 29, 2001).]

  6. #6
    Inactive Member Sonnyballs's Avatar
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    What ECU are you using and do you have a J&S Safeguard?

    Sonny

    ------------------
    Sonny Van Hook ([email protected])
    2000 JRSC'd Civic Si @ 6psi (Powered by Hondata)
    1999 Tonykart/Honda 80cc Shifter (For Sale)

  7. #7
    Inactive Member randomwalk101's Avatar
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    <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TurboITR:
    -rom burner = good

    -once the car gets to warmer temps - sometimes the car will have a fluctuating idle like that - again changing the settings on the IAC will fix this (plus a little tuning of the maps at low RPM) and setting the "target idle"

    <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    I have this "fluctuating idle" too..It's crazy..goes from 700 and jumped to 1500rpm constantly at a dead stop...How do I fix the IAC mapping to get this goes away?



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  8. #8
    Inactive Member zip's Avatar
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    <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TurboITR:

    -if your car is OBD2 the tach wont work


    <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    Huh confused Sonnyballs' Si is OBDII and his tach works fine with a Hondata equipped P28 ECU.

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    Innovator of the JRSC electronic boost controller
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  9. #9
    Inactive Member Turismo's Avatar
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    Yes the Tach should work fine.

    I have a P72 stage 4 and mine does also.

    I am running Tom Payne's map and have the idle problem also. Very erratic at this point, but sometimes it smoothes out better then stock even with the ES motor mounts in there and is perfect, so I'm sure a little specific tuning will fix it.

    If your tach was working before the new ECU I'd bet there is a problem with the P28 that was modified for you.


  10. #10
    Inactive Member randomwalk101's Avatar
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    <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Turismo:
    Yes the Tach should work fine.

    I have a P72 stage 4 and mine does also.

    I am running Tom Payne's map and have the idle problem also. Very erratic at this point, but sometimes it smoothes out better then stock even with the ES motor mounts in there and is perfect, so I'm sure a little specific tuning will fix it.

    If your tach was working before the new ECU I'd bet there is a problem with the P28 that was modified for you.

    <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


    Yes I'm using Tom Payne's map as well...idle is fluctuating at 800 to 1.5k at idle. But if I drive the car for like 30 mins, idle smooths out....Any cure for this?


    ------------------
    It's powered by GASOLINE damnit!!!

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